Surfing 101: The Beginner’s Guide to Different Swells, Breaks, and Surfing Waves
To the casual observer, each wave in the ocean appears identical to the one that preceded it. One after the other, they roll towards the shore, with little to distinguish them.
Surfers know best. They are more in tune with the sea and recognize that numerous factors play a role. The presence or absence of any of those factors has a significant effect on your shape.
For surfers, it’s both art and science, with nature generating the energy to shape the ocean to her will. The result is a variety of breaks, swells and waves that surf enthusiasts aspire to master. In the space below, we’ll introduce you to the different types and describe what makes each one unique.
How are surf waves created?
Each wave is the result of solar energy, wind energy, and the topography of the ocean floor. The sun heats the earth, which generates wind. The wind pushes the water, causing waves. Momentum builds up behind the waves to eventually form waves. At the same time, the topography of the seabed helps to shape them.
Different types of waves and breaks
A swell is a specific type of wave, generated by wind blowing over the ocean surface over a large area (measured in kilometers). The energy accumulates and ultimately forms waves, which influence the surf conditions.
You’ve probably heard the term “swell.” This swell is produced by winds blowing through large weather patterns, such as rain storms. It travels long distances and has considerable power.
Another is called wind swell. It forms as a result of local winds and therefore contains less force than a swell.
The swell continues to gain energy in deep water. But as they get closer to shallower water, that energy is released through a surf break. This occurs when the bottom can no longer support the top. It essentially collapses in on itself.
There are four types of surf breaks produced by the swell: beach, point, reef, and shore. A beach break occurs when a wave makes contact with the sandy part of the ocean floor; a point when a wave hits a piece of land; a reef when a wave touches a coral reef or similar mass, and a shore break occurs as it approaches the shoreline.
Types of surf waves created by various breaks
The following waves can be found around the islands, as well as in other places around the world. Wave quality varies by location. It is influenced by a number of factors, including the size of the underlying swell, the amount of wind, and local currents.
The reforms are broken several times. This effect is the result of variations in the depth of the seabed.
The clasps break all at once. Instead of breaking the distance, they do it with a single breath.
The brittle waves are ideal for those who are learning to surf. They carry very little power and break smoothly.
Tubes are commonly ridden by professionals and skilled hobbyists. They create barrels that surfers ride on. Most beginners avoid them, and for good reason.
Recognizing the types of swells, breaks, and waves, and understanding the mechanics behind how they are created, will help you better navigate them. You will learn how each one behaves and you will be able to employ the proper surfing techniques to surf successfully.
Having said that, nothing takes the place of experience. That means grab your board and venture out.
