Interior painting
If you’ve finally managed to take on the task of interior painting that you’ve been putting off for months (or years), here are some quick tips to help you do it a little bit faster and easier. This post will cover walls and previously stained areas such as baseboards or casings.
If you are going to paint that ugly stained edge brown, I suggest you start with that before painting the walls. The reason for this is that you will not have to worry about staining the walls with paint because you are going to paint over it. Now first of all, don’t bother trying to remove, sand, or bleach any edges that have been previously stained. This would take too long, is too much work, and the stain penetrates the wood to such an extent that it is sometimes nearly impossible to remove unless you sand and damage the wood, essentially damaging it. So once something has been stained, either you are going to paint over it or you are going to have to replace everything. There is no reason why you can’t paint over something that has previously been stained as long as you take steps to get it right. If you just paint over the stain, the stain will eventually become soggy and cause your paint job to turn brown, and the paint will also peel off very easily.
So how do we go about painting on previously stained wood? First, with 200-grit sandpaper, sand down any “shine” or shine on the wood. In some cases, there may not be a shine, but usually there is. You don’t have to sand it, you can even do it by hand. Just lightly sand until the shine is off. It is a simple task. Once finished, get a damp sponge and wipe the dust off the trim.
Next, and this is the most important step: print the wood. I would not use any other primer than Bulls Eye Water Based Interior Primer. This is amazing. You can brush it off, it covers really well and it dries super fast. You will notice that once it dries, it is not very easy to scrape it off the surface with your fingernail. This primer sticks to the surface of the wood much better than any you’ve ever used and provides an excellent sealer so that the top coat of paint you are going to use does not soak up the stain. It also provides a good surface for the paint to adhere to. Once everything is set up and has fully cured for at least several hours, or even a full day, lightly sand the surface with a very high-grit sandpaper. This will soften the brush marks so they won’t show through the top coat.
You will still be able to see the brush strokes after you have finished sanding, but they will soften so that they hide well under the top coat of paint. The next thing to do is mask any carpet or flooring that is under the baseboards if you are going to paint them. The best way to do this is to buy paper from Home Depot and tape it to the floor and tuck it into the edge of the carpet with a butter or pudding knife to the best of your ability. This should be enough to paint the baseboards and prevent paint from dripping onto the carpet. Or you can tape the paper to the edge of the carpet and tuck the tape into the edge of the carpet as best as possible. Although, I have never painted anything in my life where I have not painted something. But it can be cleaned if you use it fast enough.
Now for the top layer. I recommend using a satin oil-based paint for the top coat. If you use a fine brush and go slow, you can achieve a nice satin finish. After the first coat is finished, you will need to lightly sand the top coat to reduce brush marks and then apply a second coat. Repeat again with a third coat if necessary. The reason for this is that it is difficult to achieve a good satin smooth paint finish without brush marks. But take your time. Sanding and then recoating can give good results as long as you use an oil-based paint. Now to make this process fly and achieve almost professional looking results, if you don’t mind spending $ 79, I suggest you get a Wagner HVLP control sprayer. These babies are amazing. They will spray a beautiful coat very quickly with almost professional results. And you shouldn’t have to spray more than 2 coats. You can also spray the primer with this so everything goes really fast. And if you use a sprayer, for trimming, you can use a high-gloss latex paint if you want. It still ends up looking pretty good, almost as good as oil-based paint.
You are then ready to roll up the walls. Do you want this to go a little faster? Instead of skirting the area near the ceiling and trimming, go ahead and roll up the walls first with a paint roller. Get as close to the trim and ceiling as possible with the roller without getting paint on them. Now the job is done for you. Because once you’re done rolling, you can see how much edge work you need to do. Assuming the trim work has been completed, use a low tack masking tape to stick over the trim so that the wall paint does not smear. Next, get a high-quality sharp-edged brush and paint the edges close to the ceiling and trim to match the areas you rolled. Painting in this order seems to go much faster. And if you’re careful, you don’t need to do a lot of masking on the floor. Just put some plastic where your roller tray is and go to it.
And that is. You saved between $ 500 and $ 2000 by having to pay someone to paint it for you. Using the above methods makes it easy and fun to know how much money you are saving. It only takes about 3 days to perform, only working a few hours each day. It takes all the time to allow the paint to dry and cure to mask trim and second top coats. In the meantime, do something else with your day while the paint dries.
So when it comes to stained wood, don’t forget Bulls Eye water-based primer. Do not use any other primer. It’s great stuff. And I highly recommend spending $ 79 for a Wagner HVLP sprayer. It can be used indoors, offers a finish that is almost as good as a $ 1000 professional sprayer, makes the job 10 times faster, and can be used over and over again. When it comes to DIY paint projects, the Wagner was the best I had ever bought. For example, I had many cabinets in my kitchen that I had paid someone to professionally paint a satin white cabin. This man did a good job and used a high-quality professional sprayer to deliver a smooth, oil-based satin finish, just like what you see in new homes. However, I was missing a couple of cabinet doors that the previous owner had removed in the process of converting the house to a repair house. So I had to make some new doors and they were duplicated to resemble the cabinet doors that were originally present.
Anyway, the painter could not paint them because they were still in the workshop that was being made. So once I got them back, I primed them and then sprayed two coats of white oil-based paint on them with my $ 79 wagner. They turned out great and almost matched the finish done by the professional painter. The only way you can tell the difference is to examine each door very closely and feel with your hand. Both are smooth finishes, but professionally painted doors have a somewhat “thicker” finish or feel. But being half a meter from the cabinets, you can’t tell at all which doors were painted with the Wagner and which were professionally painted. Basically, unless you told someone, no one could tell the difference. Even if you told them, it’s still hard to tell which doors I painted with the Wagner. It takes a keen eye to recognize the differences in the smooth finish. In fact, some might even argue that Wagner’s finish is better. Definitely a good investment.
