Kolkata – ‘The city for everyone’

Train travel has always given a special touch to many of the trips I have made throughout the forty-five years of my existence. These special moments, courtesy of Indian Railways, date back to the early 1970s, when I used to travel with my father to Madras during my childhood, where I went to primary school. Memories of such journeys along the gauge track connecting Egmore to Kollam remain ever fresh in memory. Train travel, especially in the Indian subcontinent, has an allure and is perfectly intertwined with the travel dreams of all Indians. Traveling cheaply while experiencing India’s cultural and linguistic diversity is the highlight of south-north or east-west rail travel. This visit to Kolkata began with one such trip. A train ride from Trivandrum to this historic city, ‘the city of joy’ now renamed ‘city for all’.

This visit to Kolkata was special as it was my first visit to this cultural center of India. The pre-independence days, turbulent with a national spirit yearning for freedom, absorbed the energy and spirit of Kolkata to drive Indian nationalism towards its ultimate goal. Nethaji Subhash Chandra Bose, the fiery spirit of Indian nationalism against British rule was a son of this great city. His views, different from those of Gandhi, could have given India a superior position on the Asian and international stage if the revolution had been successful. We arrived at Shalimar station, one of the four main railway stations in Kolkata by Gurudev express from Trivandrum on Nov 12, 2013, at 3:50 pm, two hours late. Our driver, Siddarth, was waiting outside when we left the platform. Soon we were driving into the heart of Kolkata. The most striking feature of this metropolis is the presence of many old buildings, some over two hundred years old, along with some new ones. Renamed Rabindra Sethu in 1965 and towering over the Hoogly River, which is actually the Ganges, Howrah Bridge was a sight to behold as our taxi passed through it. Siddarth gave a good account of the history of it and other buildings and monuments on either side as we went along. Hoogly for the sheer volume of water it contained it was an amazing sight. Numerous ships and barges could be seen folding along it. The West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation (WBTDC) offers river rides at different prices.

I was surprised to find neatness and systematic traffic on the roads contrary to my belief that Kolkata was a place of total chaos. This turned out to be a mirage as the ugly face of Kolkata soon surfaced. Dusty and dirty Kolkata was evident as we drove on. Soon the taxi turned into a quiet, elegant street that had sidewalks and reminded me of the Chinatown in Singapore where I had been a year ago. The streets were not that wide but they were clean and lined with old palatial buildings. This was a fancy area, I was told. We alighted at the second house, the hotel where my dear friend, Venugopal, a native of Kannur and a resident of Calcutta for the last forty years, had arranged our lodging. Thanks to his influence, we were able to get a luxury room at a very cheap price.

Although tired after the long journey, I couldn’t resist walking the streets towards the lake side near our hotel while Babu, my colleague and partner, chose to rest in the room. This park, as it could be more aptly called, is one of the many bodies of water in the city nestled amidst the greenery. Many youngsters along with the opposite sex could be seen in the green shadows. It was getting dark even though it was only 5pm. The phenomenon of early daylight fading is very evident in the northeastern regions. When I got back to the hotel room it was quite dark and I somehow convinced Babu to come out once more. Kalighat, where the famous Kali temple is located, was only 1.5 km from our hotel. Even though the festivities associated with Durga Pooju ended only a few days ago, the place was full of colour. The typical Calcutta spirit was evident as a procession passed us with men, women and children dancing and singing with joy and fervor following a huge idol of Kali on a truck. Celebrations in Kolkata are marked by indulgence and enjoyment. The temple, I would say, did not have the neatness associated with those in Kerala. However, sincerity and faith were evident.

The next day began with a taxi ride to the WBTDC tourism center located about four miles from our hotel. Our host had booked two tickets through WBTDC for a one day city tour. It turned out to be a worthwhile experience considering the low cost of tickets (Rs. 450/- per person) and the number of places covered. We arrived at the WBTDC tourism center at 8:30am to report for the tour. Since there was plenty of time, we decided to have breakfast with the vendor who provided iddlies and chutney in front of the tourist office. It turned out to be a good idea as the food was delicious and the cost didn’t break our pockets. The tour started at 9:30 am with a window side view of Raj Bhavan, Akashwani Bhavan, Bidhan Sabha, High Court, Treasury Building, St. John’s Church, GPO Building, Writers before entering Howrah Bridge. A commentary from the guide on the history and importance of the buildings and landmarks on both sides of the road was very informative. We stopped at Belur Math which was built and maintained by Sri Ramakrishna Math. This is a place of exquisite beauty both in terms of natural and man-made landmarks. Located in a tranquil setting on the banks of the Hoogly, the prayer hall is housed in a building that is an architectural marvel. It was hard to digest the fact that such a place could exist in the midst of the chaos and din of Kolkata. After spending some time there we left for the Dakshineswar temple. Here Matha Kali is the main deity with twelve Shiva lingas housed in the adjoining area along the banks of the Hoogly. Along the bathing ghat close to it, many pilgrims were seen performing pooja and bathing in the Hoogly waters.

Our next stop was the Jain temple, which is again architectural splendor though of a different kind. The intricate drawings and carvings on the wall are a sight to behold. A small shop on the premises gives tourists the opportunity to purchase locally made decorations. The Police museum, which was the next stop, displayed an impressive array of weapons and gave an insight into the history of the Bengal State Police Force. Raja Ram Mohan Roy Museum, our next stop point was the ancestral home of this great man. His works, writings and other contributions of his are exhibited supported by documentary evidence. This was a truly enlightening moment in my life. During the lunch stop, our guide showed us a restaurant that was famous for Bengal fish curry. The taste was quite different from Kerala style fish curry but quite delicious.

The first landmark along the way when the tour resumed after lunch was the Shaheed Minar, followed by the City Hall and the historic Gardens of Eden. We got off at Nethaji Bhavan, the residence of Nethaji Subhash Chandra Bose. The inspiring images of Nethaji and the letters written by him during the period from the mid-1930s to the late 1940s filled me with emotion. I couldn’t help but wonder where India would have been among the nations of the world if Nethaji had succeeded in realizing his dream. The car in which Nethaji fled to Burma when the British raided his house is still preserved in the same condition in the front yard.

After saying goodbye to Nethaji’s residence, we headed to the Victoria Museum, the jewel of Kolkata. This monumental building set amidst acres of extensive gardens gave the feeling of being in some European country.

The next and last day in Kolkata, after having breakfast at Banana leaf, a popular South Indian restaurant, we decided to try the city’s metro and trams. The metro, although not as sophisticated as the one in Delhi, is a cheap and quick way to get around. Board at Kalighat and get off at Esplanade. To get a real feel for Kolkata, we took a hand-pulled rickshaw to the tram station. Boarding a tram from Esplande we get off at Kalighat to complete a full circle. The tram, a cost-effective and pollution-free means of transportation, is the trademark of Kolkata. Promoting tram travel in association with the Department of Tourism is a sure way to attract tourists, both domestic and international, to Kolkata.

That evening, after a taxi ride to Sealdah, a bustling station about fifteen kilometers from our hotel, we boarded the Uttar Banga express to New Jalpaiguri (Siliguri) at 7:40 pm. Priyanka, a young woman who works in Calcutta, and my fellow passenger on the train shared their experiences in Calcutta, which was sobering. The night I lay in the upper bunk of the train compartment, thoughts of the Calcutta experiences kept me awake for quite some time. The most surprising aspect was that the culture and essence of Kolkata is found in the system that seamlessly progresses in the chaotic hustle and bustle interwoven in the life of every Kolkata.

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